The Legendary Oriental Bangkok - the Grand Dame on the Chao Phraya Turns 130
Wednesday, May 28th, 2008The Oriental Bangkok, the world-renowned luxury hotel, is the
oldest hotel in Bangkok, has a legacy of famous writers and a
long and famous history. She celebrates her 130th anniversary
this year.
Two Danish sea captains founded the Oriental in
1865 during the reign of King Rama IV when
Thailand opened up to trade as a result of the Bowring Treaty
signed ten years earlier.
The founders saw the need for a hotel by the Chao Phraya to
cater for the seafarers and traders who sailed upriver. They
didn’t realize then that the hotel they started would one day be
a celebrated luxury hotel graced by the rich and famous.
Unfortunately the original building is no longer standing.
The history of the Oriental Bangkok, the first hotel in the city,
is taken from 1876 when the old wing was
built. This building is still there.
The tradition of famous writers dates back to 1888, when
Konrad Korzeniowski, a Polish merchant navy officer, sailed
up the Chao Phraya and docked next to the Oriental Hotel.
Nicknamed “Polish Joe” by his shipmates, he later became
known to the literary world as Joseph Conrad.
Others were to follow in Conrad’s footsteps. In 1923, Somerset
Maugham, an English writer stayed at the Oriental Bangkok
and wrote the children’s tale, “Siamese Fairy Tale” while
sitting in the river terrace gazing out at the Chao Phraya.
Noel Coward, another English writer, stayed at the Oriental
Bangkok in 1929. Conrad, Maugham, Coward and the
American, James Michener, four literary giants, became the
founding fathers of the Authors’
Wing.
The Oriental suffered damage, disrepair and looting during
World War II, when it was taken over by the Japanese army.
After the war, Allied officers waiting to return home made the
hotel their living quarters.
In 1945, another legendary figure entered the scene. Jim
Thompson, the American who later made his name in Thai
silk, became one of the owners of the Oriental and a resident as
well.
Thompson with five others, foreigners and Thai, pooled their
funds in an attempt to revive the hotel. Owing to personal
differences, Thompson left the group a year later.
The hotel went through a second major construction when the
Garden Wing was
completed and opened in 1958. In 1967 there
was another change in ownership. It was then that Kurt
Wachtveitl became General Manager.
The turning point came in 1974 when Jardine Matheson set up
the Mandarin Hotels Group and bought a 49% stake in the
Oriental Bangkok. This provided the impetus for a major
expansion with the new 376-room wing, ballroom and multi-
level car park.
The new River Wing
opened in 1976, with suites
honoring Barbara Cartland, John le Carre, Gore Vidal,
Graham Greene and Norman Mailer. John le Carre was said to
have finished “The Honourable Schoolboy” here.
In 2006, after another major facelift, the Oriental Bangkok
celebrates its 130th anniversary with Kurt Wachtveitl still at
the helm after 39 years, backed by his faithful and long-serving
staff.
At a 130, the charming grand dame still holds court by the
Chao Phraya. The tradition of famous writers lives on.
The Oriental Bangkok is an
icon that evokes memories of authors like Conrad,
Maugham and Michener.
This article first appeared in Tour Bangkok Legacies,
a historical travel site on renowned places preserved for
posterity, the momentous events surrounding these places and
the legendary figures who left these legacies in the landscape of
Bangkok. The author Eric Lim, a free-lance writer, lives in
Bangkok Thailand.